Switching from Trigger Release to Back Tension (Hinge) Release

This post isn't intended to persuade you to go one way or another, or even to start a debate on which release type is better. That subject has been tackled so many times and by a lot more reputable "writers", I don't think it's my place to be trying to "sell" any release type to anyone... Instead, I'll just say why I'm switching and how the process went, so if you've already made up your mind to switch but haven't already, this is what you can expect. Everything here is specific to my releases, but is mostly applicable to any of the kind.

First, why would I do this? Well, curiosity for one - I read that most indoor shooters use it, so why not try it?  Second and more important, I noticed I'm "punching" my trigger release. I don't think I have target panic, but I do tend to punch it when on target rather than to gently squeeze it, and this is target panic in the making. I'd rather prevent now than heal later.

So, my release choices.

For trigger release, I have my "old" Carter Insatiable+.

For back tension, I just got a brand new Stan Black Jack. Deciding factor to get this release over any other one - it comes with a trainer lock and it's very obvious how it works; I've heard of way too many stories of people punching themselves in the face trying a back tension release for the first time, so this was mandatory for me.

Stan Black Jack

Carter Insatiable+

Pulling my bow for the first time was a pain in the ass... if you're shooting trigger, rule is, thumb behind the trigger while pulling and pull with all fingers evenly. You do that with hinge, and you won't even get it to hook onto your D-loop. The way things go here, you have to anchor your thumb on the safety, and PRESS HARD while pulling. Also, 80% of the pulling is done by thumb and index finger, and everything else is almost not touching the release. Reason - you're trying to avoid "simulating" back tension by rotating the release while pulling. The release must stay in the same relative position to the string throughout the pull... Change the angle, it fires.

Once I got to pulling my bow without the "clicker" firing on me during the pull consistently, which took about 20-30 attempts, I was ready to take the trainer lock off. Pull, anchor, aim... boom. They say the release should surprise you every time, and boy did it surprise me the first time. That day I dedicated to shooting just to get used to the release. I fired about 100 arrows at a blank target at about 5 meters, no aiming, just shoot. I think this is critical and everyone should do it. This way you only focus on firing the release, not aiming. Hopefully in 100 practice arrows you'll be able to have the release fire when you want it to.

Next, shooting at a target... I have my bow tuned and balanced so that I can hold steady on the X for what feels like 2-3 seconds. With my trigger, this would be the time when I punch my release, and sometimes hit that X, sometimes hit outside the 9 ring (I'm still working on improving in many aspects, so the misses are not just because of my bad release technique, but form in general too). With this release, those huge misses kind of went away almost immediately. Unless I do something really stupid, I'm inside the yellow at 18m. Many times I'm inside the big 10, and more and more often inside the X (so at this point the release can't help me any more - I have to keep practicing).

What will take getting used to is the inability to "fire on command". I can no longer decide that this is the right moment to fire, and do it... What I do now is try to "rip the bow apart" when I want to fire. So I created a "pull/release process" for me, and I'm running it in my head for every arrow (in hopes that it will soon become something I don't think about and just do every time). This is it:

1. hold release with thumb on safety and index finger only;
2. hook release on d-loop; after this, release relative position (to the world) doesn't change;
3. pull bow by applying LOTS of pressure to safety with thumb, holding release with mostly thumb and index finger;
4. anchor;
5. remove thumb from safety while transferring holding weight to middle finger;
6. bring ring finger onto the release without applying any pressure;
7. aim, commit to a shot;
8. start pulling some more by bringing shoulder blades together (so very small movement here);
9. start relaxing holding arm and allow some holding weight to transfer to ring finger from index finger;

And at some point during point 9, the release will fire. 

This works for me, and I think works better than a thumb release, at least for indoor 18m. I still need lots of practice, and I haven't done any significant shooting to say that because of the switch my score improved by ... whatever percent, but I think making the switch was the right decision and I'm sticking to it.

With that said, I'm keeping the trigger release for outdoor shooting and long distances... I'm also working on not punching it, but triggering it by squeezing it using back tension too. So we'll see what happens...

M.